Saturday, June 17, 2017

Frozen Pizza Crust



The other day I wanted to make some bread sticks to go along with our spaghetti dinner.  I made the dough and let it sit. After an hour I checked on it and it was as flat as could be. I was so disappointed. Instead of just throwing the dough out and wasting it I made it into pizza crust that I put in the freezer to pull out for a quick pizza meal later in the week.

I started with the dough.

1 cup of hot water ( this was my trouble i had my water too hot and it killed my yeast)
1 packet of yeast
a pinch of sugar and salt
2 tablespoons of olive oil, plus some for the bowl
3 to 4 cups of flour

Mix all the ingredients in the order given. Slowly add the flour, kneading the dough for the last couple cups of flour. Pour extra oil in the bottom of the bowl and and turn your dough over in it. Let the dough sit covered for at least 30 minutes.

Divide the dough into 3 and spread out one of the rounds into an iron skillet or pizza pan. Poke it with a fork.





Cook the dough in a oven preheated to 425°F for 6 to 10 minutes, until the dough is firm and slightly browned. Repeat for the other 2 rounds.
Take them off the pan and let them cool. When they are cooled wrap them in foil and put them in a Ziploc bag. Place them in the freezer.




When you are ready to use the crusts, preheat the oven to 425°F. Add your toppings and put the pizza in the oven for 10 minutes or until the cheese has melted and it is golden brown.


The dough will become a cracker crisp crust and oh so good.



More Recipes You Will Love: 

Homemade Biscuit mix

Banana Oatmeal Cookies




 

Wednesday, June 14, 2017

Updated Lacy Japanese Lantern





I have always imagined these being strung about for a fancy garden party or outdoor wedding.  After 5 years and 3 moves I still have the lamp and it has held up well. I have it decorating my Mantel, especially at Christmas time where I add other smaller handmade ornaments and string them all along the large mirror perched on the mantel.

With this pattern I am half way through moving my patterns over from Crochetvolution. It is nice having all of my patterns in one location on my blog. 


Yarn: Size 10 crochet thread
Hook: Crochet steel hook size 7/1.65MM, 
Notions:

Where can I get the pattern?

This is a free pattern. Keep scrolling down to see it. If you would like to purchase an ad free and printer friendly PDF, you can buy one through my Ravelry Store. The pattern is $3.00 through paypal. Buy now

Copyright

Julia Schwartz. Do not reproduce, copy, distribute, or sell this pattern without permission of the designer. This pattern must not be translated, reproduced, or circulated in another language without prior consent. If you have questions about this pattern please contact me through e-mail.

Special stitches

Leaf stitch: 
Chain 5 {yo two times insert hook into 5th chain from hook yo and pull through (A), yo, pull through two loops twice [you should have 2 loops on the hook (B&C)]} repeat once (3 loops) (D,E,F),  yo and pull through 2 loops 2 times (G&H). 

Picot: Chain 4 slip stitch into tr just made.

Tr3tog: {yo two times insert hook into desired stitch, yo and pull through, yo pull through two loops twice} repeat {to} 2 more times. You should have four loops on the hook, yo and pull through all four loops.

First Large Motif

Round 1: Ch 6, slip stitch into beginning ch, ch 8, {Tr ch 4 in ring}  repeat {to}  6 more times, slip stitch into 4th ch at beginning. 8 Tr and 8 ch 4 spaces.

Round 2: Slip stitch into ch 4 space, ch 1, {5 sc in ch four space} repeat {to}  till end, slip stitch into first sc. 40 sc.

Round 3: Ch 1, sc in same stitch, {leaf stitch twice (one will be on top of the other) skip 4 sc, and sc in next stitch} repeat  {to}around to end, ending with 2 leaf stitches, slip stitch into beginning sc. 16 leaf stitches.

Round 4: Ch 5, {leaf stitch, tr between two leaf stitches of previous row, picot, leaf stitch, Dtr in sc,} repeat  {to} 6 times, end with leaf stitch, tr between two leaf stitches, picot, leaf stitch, slip stitch into 5th chain of beginning stitch.


Round 5: Ch 8, {(tr3tog, chain 3 in picot of previous row), repeat  (to) 2 times. Dtr in dtr of previous row, chain 3}  repeat {to}  6 times, tr3tog, chain 3 three times, slip stitch into fifth chain at beginning. 24 tr3tog.

Round 6: Ch 8, (tr in tr3tog of last round, ch 4,) repeat (to) 2 more times, {tr in dtr of last round, (ch 4, tr in next tr3tog)  3 times, ch 4} repeat {to} to end. Slip st. into forth ch of beginning stitch. 


Round 7: Ch 1, slip st into ch space, *3 sc, 4 ch, 3 sc in each ch 4 space* repeat around. Slip st into beginning st. Finish off.

Second and Third Large Motif


Rounds 1- 6: Follow directions from first motif.
Round 7: Ch 1, slip stitch into ch space  {3 sc in ch space, ch 2 take needle out of loop insert needle into corresponding loop of next motif, and back onto the ch 2, draw through, ch 2, 3 sc in same ch 4 space as previous 3 sc.} repeat  {to} 3 more times. {3 sc, ch 4, 3 sc in next ch 4 space} repeat  {to} around. Slip st into beginning st. Finish off. 32 picots altogether, 28 free, 4 connected to first motif.


Fourth Motif

Rounds 1- 6: Follow directions from first motif.
Round 7: Ch 1, slip st into ch space, space {(3 sc in ch space, ch 2 take needle out of loop insert needle into corresponding loop of next motif, and back onto the ch 2, draw through, ch 2, 3 sc in same ch 4 space as previous 3 sc.) repeat (to) 3more times. (3 sc, ch 4, 3 sc) in next ch 4 space repeat (to) 12 times} Repeat starting back to the first repeat. Slip stitch into beginning st. Finish off.

After the fourth motif is made you should have the motifs connected in a circle. Fifth and sixth motifs will go on the top and the bottom.

Fifth and sixth Motif:

Rounds 1-6:
Round 7: Ch 1, slip st into ch space, space {(3 sc in ch space, ch 2 take needle out of loop insert needle into corresponding loop of 1st motif, and back onto the ch 2, draw through, ch 2, 3 sc in same ch 4 space as previous 3 sc.) repeat (to) 3 more times. (3 sc, ch 4, 3 sc in next ch 4 space) repeat  (to) 3 more times} Repeat {to} 3 more times starting back to the first repeat, slip stitch into beginning st. Finish off.  

Before adding the small motifs, decide which holes will be used for the lamp. One hole will be left completely open, and the hole opposite of this will have the motif that the wiring will go through. Mark these with some string.

Lamp motif

Round 1: Ch 36, join together to form a ring, ch 1, {4 sc in ring, ch 2, take needle out of loop insert needle into the second right loop of one of the large motifs, draw through, ch 2, 4 sc in ring, ch 4}  repeat {to}  around. Slip st into beginning st.  48 sc and six connecting loops and six free loops

Small Motif: Make 6

Round 1: Make an adjustable ring, (ch 4, tr, ch 4, slip st into adjustable ring) 5 times. Ch 4, tr2 tog. Six petals made.

Round 2: Ch 1, sc in same space, ch 6, {sc in next tr, ch 6} repeat around. 6 sc and six 6 ch spaces.

Round 3: Slip st into ch space, ch 1, {4 sc, ch 2, take needle out of loop insert needle into the second right loop of one of the large motifs, draw through, ch 2, 4 sc in same ch 6 space. Ch 4, 4 sc, ch 2, take needle out of loop insert needle into the next loop of same large motif, ch 2, 4 sc in next ch 6 space.ch 4} repeat 2 more times. Slip st into beginning st. Finish off. Six connecting loops, six free loops.


Now it is time to starch the globe

To create the sugar starch required to harden the globe: Combine 1 cup of sugar with ½ cup of water. Heat the mixture on the stove until all of the sugar is dissolved. This will occur prior to the boiling point.

Carefully (due to the heat) soak the globe in the starch. Pull out the globe with tongs and squeeze out any extra starch with the tongs and your fingers (being careful not to burn your fingers). 

Insert the punch ball inside the globe and make sure that the rubber band (which is attached to the punch ball) is “sticking out” of the lamp motif. Blow up the punch ball so that the globe is slightly stretched. Tie a knot in the punch ball. 

Hang the globe up by the rubber band of the punch ball so that it will dry. Place wax paper or something under the globe to catch the dripping water. Air-drying will take approximately three days. 

When the globe is completely hardened, slowly release the air from the punch ball (I used scissors to cut the knot and then slowly pushed my fingers on the balloon so that it would peel off the starched thread. The balloon will be stuck to the thread, due to the hardened starch. Then I pulled the balloon out of the large hole of the globe). Make sure you do this slowly so the globe does not become misshapen.

Follow the manufacturing instructions when putting together the lamp. For fire safety, never use a bulb that is over 15 watts, and do not keep the lamp light “on” for long periods of time.    

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Always Pointing North Blanket

Twists and Bows Cowl

Sunday, June 4, 2017

A Basket Full of Posies: The Learner's Curve Series



 The last pattern in the learner's curve series! I have had so much fun with these patterns, and I think this one is my favorite out of all three of them. I loved it so much I felt that it needed its own name. 




Let's review the other two patterns. We started out really simple with the Learner's Curve Dishcloth.  With the dishcloth, we learned the the basics of the slipped stitch and and how to make the i-cord edging. 

The second pattern in the series was the Learner's Curve Clutch. We grew our understanding and added dimension to our project. We seemed two sides together to make a simple bag design and we practiced making the i-cord all on its own. 


The third and final pattern we are taking all that we learned to make a really lovely basket. The slip stitch pattern is the same and we keep the ideas of seaming two sides together with the i-cord edging. 









 Material's Needed

Yarn: Any worsted cotton yarn you have will do. 1 ball for color A and ½ a ball for color B.
Needles: 5.5MM  straight needles and double points. You can use regular needles for the clutch, but for the edging and strap you will need the double points.
Notions: Tapestry needle to sew in your ends. 
Size: finished basket is 7 by 7 square. 2 1/2 inches tall. 
Gauge: 16 stitches of the pattern = 4 in, 28 rows equals 4 in.
Stitches Used:  Knit (k), Purl (p), Slip Stitch (sl), Knit 2 together (k2tog)

Where Can I Get The Pattern?

 This is a free pattern just keep scrolling down. It will also be a paid pattern that will include the other two patterns with it in the price. For $3.00 you will get all three patterns in the series. Lois T. If you see this send me a message and I will send you the other patterns in the series since you already paid for the first one. 

It is for sale in my Ravelry Store.buy now
The link takes you to the link for puchasing all three patterns for $3.00.
If you just want the basket pattern you can go here.


Pattern Instructions




Copyright
Julia Schwartz. Do not reproduce, copy, distribute, or sell this pattern without permission of the designer. This pattern must not be translated, reproduced, or circulated in another language without prior consent. If you have questions about this pattern please contact me. 


Bottom of the Basket:

Cast on 28 st.

Row 1 -38: K, at the end of row 38 do not cast off

Sides of basket:

Side one:
Row 39: p
Row 40: {k 2, sl 2 with yarn in front like you are going to purl} repeat {to} till the end.
Row 41: p 1,{sl 2 with the yarn in the back like you are going to knit, p2,} Repeat  {to} till the end. Ending with a p 1. 
Row 42: {sl 2 with the yarn in front, k2} repeat {to} till the end.
Row 43: p 3, {sl 2 with yarn in the back, p 2} repeat {to} till 1 st from the end p 1.
Row 44- 52: repeat rows 40 – 43,
Cast off. 




All other sides:


Pick up 28 stiches on side starting with the right side facing up.
Repeat instructions for the first side, for a total of 4 sides.
(Now would be a good time to block your work. It’s not necessary but it gives it a nice finish.)

 Sewing up the corners




With the double pointed needles, put an adjustable loop on your needle, insert your needle through both sides of the fabric at the bottom corner. See picture for clarification.  {Pick up a stitch, k2tog } repeat {to} til you come to the end of the corner (most of mine were 10 stitches), cast off.
Repeat for all the corners. 


I-cord Edging and Handles:

Start at a corner, Cast on 3 st onto one of your double point needles.  With the right side facing up, insert the needle in the right hand side corner and {pick up a new st. You should now have 4 st on the needle. Push the needle down so you are now working from the other end, k 2, k2tog through the back loops}
Repeat {to} for a total of 8 times

Make i-cord handles:

Pick up a new stitch, (there should be 4 stitches on the needle, {k 4, move work the other side of the needle} repeat {to} 15 times, k 2, k2tog (for 3 stitches on the needle).
Skip 9 stitches  and {pick up a new st . You should now have 4 st on the needle. Push the needle down so you are now working from the other end, k 2, k2tog through the back loops}
Repeat  {to} for a total of 4 5 times (this should bring you to the start of the next i-cord handle
Repeat the instructions starting at Make i-cord handles:
The i-cord edging after the handle will be a repeat of 37 and not 45.
Cast off. Weave in all you ends.  



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Swift Swirl Hat